Vichyssoise (chilled potato and leek soup)

This is not a French soup. At least, probably not. It does, however, have a fancy French name and can be found in French cookbooks. The cookbook I found it in was the Les Halles Cookbook by Anthony Bourdain. Like many fans other of food, I worship Anthony Bourdain. A few years back, I ate at Les Halles in New York, where Bourdain used to be executive chef. Soon afterward, I saw the Les Halles Cookbook at the bookstore. Having read his Kitchen Confidential, I was rightfully excited about this book. Unfortunately, it's not a great cookbook. It's a fun read but terrible to cook from, as are most cookbooks featuring scaled down restaurant recipes. There are, however, a few gems that aren't a pain in the ass to prepare at home. This is one of them.

One note about leeks. They're dirty when you buy them, even if they don't look it from the outside. After cutting off the dark green leaves, leaving just the white (and any light green) part, slice in half lengthwise, then into thin slices. Give these thin slices a good washing to remove any dirt hidden in all those layers. You don't want to serve creamy potato leek soup with dirt garnish to your guests. Use chives for garnish instead.

Be sure to go easy on the nutmeg. Its flavor intensifies after the soup chills overnight. So, add less than you think at first and adjust if necessary the next day.

Ingredients (serves 6)
4 tbsp. butter
8 leeks, white part only, cleaned and thinly sliced
2 medium Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
4 cups light chicken stock, broth, or water (Julia Child's recommendation)
2 cups heavy cream
pinch of nutmeg
salt + pepper
handful chives, finely chopped

• In dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium-low heat.
• Once the butter is melted, add the leeks and sweat for 5 min. This means stirring often such that they don't take on any color.
• Add the potatoes and cook for a min or two, stirring a few times. Stir in the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add a bit more stock if necessary such that the vegetables are almost covered.
  
• Reduce to a simmer. Cook on low heat, gently simmering, for 35 min or until the leeks and potatoes are very soft.
• Allow to cool for a few minutes. Then, blend using an immersion blender or in small batches using a regular blender.
• When everything is blended, whisk in the cream and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper.
• Return to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and continue cooking for 5 min. Thin soup out with a little additional stock or water at this point, if desired.
• Transfer the soup to a medium sized mixing bowl placed in a larger bowl filled with ice and water. Allow the soup to cool to room temp, ~30 min.
• When the soup is at room temp, cover in plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator overnight, or until cool.
• When ready to serve, check the seasoning again and sprinkle with chives.

Recipe from: Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook

Salmon tartare

Every month or so, I ravenously crave raw fish. Gotta have it. Can't live without it. At night, dream about it. I usually satisfy this hankering with sushi because it's easy to find. However, I also love the less ubiquitous crudo, ceviche, carpaccio, and tartare. If you're one of those people who dislikes fish, all seafood, only shellfish, whatever, I can't even take you seriously. I won't go on a diatribe but will just say that you're missing out.

This recipe is simple, with nothing extra to f#%k up the flavor of the fish. Try to find the best salmon possible. You could substitute dill (go easy though, tiger) or green onion (very thinly sliced) for the chives and perhaps add some finely minced jalapeño and avocado. I wouldn't add much more than that, however. This should be all about the fish rather than adding a ton of sh*t that obfuscates its flavor. Don't be an obfuscator.


Ingredients (serves 4)
8 oz. salmon fillet (skin off, pin bones removed)
~1.5 tbs. shallot, finely minced
1 lemon
chive for garnish, thinly sliced
extra virgin olive oil
baguette
kosher salt + freshly ground black pepper

• To prepare the salmon, first cut thin slices. Turn these slices on their side and cut into thin matchsticks (julienne). Then turn the julienned pieces 90 degrees and cut into small cubes (brunoise). The knife work doesn't have to be as good as your local sushi master but should be clean and neat. The better you cut the salmon the better the final texture of the tartare.
  
• Drizzle fish with olive oil, about 2 tbs. and gently mix.
  
• Add the shallot, zest of a lemon, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix some more.
  
• Cut 10 slices of baguette, ~1/2 in thick and toast in the oven at 350.
• Top each piece of bread with some of the salmon mix.
  
• Sprinkle some chives on top and squeeze a bit of lemon juice right before eating.

Inspired by Nicole Stich, delicious:days website

Seared scallops with bacon, mixed greens, lime vinaigrette

Finally, a real recipe on this blog. This is a simple, tasty one I got from my good friend, Brian Green. The sweetness of the scallops, the saltiness of the bacon, and the brightness of the lime come together like a Voltron of flavor.

Try to find dry scallops, which kick the sh*t out of wet scallops. Wet scallops are soaked in a solution of sodium triphosphate, a preservative that makes them absorb water. They won't sear as well and aren't as fresh. If you can't find the dry variety, which can be hard to track down, just use the freshest scallops available.

Ingredients (serves 2, but easy to scale up)

4 sea scallops

2 slices of bacon (~2 oz.), pancetta also works

2 large handfuls mixed salad greens (~3 oz.)

1 lime

extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper

butter (if necessary)

• Dice bacon and cook over low heat in heavy bottom pan.
• While the bacon is rendering, zest and juice the lime. Whisk in olive oil, ~3 parts oil to lime juice. Season with salt and pepper.
• Once the bacon is almost finished, lightly dress the greens with vinaigrette and split among two plates. Reserve some vinaigrette for later.
  
• When the bacon is crispy, remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
• Pat the scallops very dry. Remove the tough adductor muscle if present. Score the scallops in a diamond pattern using a sharp knife, with cuts about a cm apart and about a half cm deep. Season both sides with salt and pepper.
• If there's not enough bacon fat to cover the pan, add some butter. Then, crank up the heat to high until the fat is smoking.
• Add scallops to pan, leaving plenty of room between each one. Allow to brown for ~2 min. Resist the urge to flip or move them before a nice crust develops. Turn scallops and brown the second side, again for about 2 min.
• When done, the scallops should be about as firm as medium rare steak, meaning not very firm. They'll be nice and crusty on the outside and pink in the middle.
  
• Plate two scallops on top of each bed of dressed salad. Add crispy bacon pieces and drizzle some vinaigrette on top.