Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Vichyssoise (chilled potato and leek soup)

This is not a French soup. At least, probably not. It does, however, have a fancy French name and can be found in French cookbooks. The cookbook I found it in was the Les Halles Cookbook by Anthony Bourdain. Like many fans other of food, I worship Anthony Bourdain. A few years back, I ate at Les Halles in New York, where Bourdain used to be executive chef. Soon afterward, I saw the Les Halles Cookbook at the bookstore. Having read his Kitchen Confidential, I was rightfully excited about this book. Unfortunately, it's not a great cookbook. It's a fun read but terrible to cook from, as are most cookbooks featuring scaled down restaurant recipes. There are, however, a few gems that aren't a pain in the ass to prepare at home. This is one of them.

One note about leeks. They're dirty when you buy them, even if they don't look it from the outside. After cutting off the dark green leaves, leaving just the white (and any light green) part, slice in half lengthwise, then into thin slices. Give these thin slices a good washing to remove any dirt hidden in all those layers. You don't want to serve creamy potato leek soup with dirt garnish to your guests. Use chives for garnish instead.

Be sure to go easy on the nutmeg. Its flavor intensifies after the soup chills overnight. So, add less than you think at first and adjust if necessary the next day.

Ingredients (serves 6)
4 tbsp. butter
8 leeks, white part only, cleaned and thinly sliced
2 medium Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
4 cups light chicken stock, broth, or water (Julia Child's recommendation)
2 cups heavy cream
pinch of nutmeg
salt + pepper
handful chives, finely chopped
  • In dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium-low heat.
  • Once the butter is melted, add the leeks and sweat for 5 min. This means stirring often such that they don't take on any color.
  • Add the potatoes and cook for a min or two, stirring a few times. Stir in the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add a bit more stock if necessary such that the vegetables are almost covered.
  • Reduce to a simmer. Cook on low heat, gently simmering, for 35 min or until the leeks and potatoes are very soft.
  • Allow to cool for a few minutes. Then, blend using an immersion blender or in small batches using a regular blender.
  • When everything is blended, whisk in the cream and nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper.
  • Return to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and continue cooking for 5 min. Thin soup out with a little additional stock or water at this point, if desired.
  • Transfer the soup to a medium sized mixing bowl placed in a larger bowl filled with ice and water. Allow the soup to cool to room temp, ~30 min.
  • When the soup is at room temp, cover in plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator overnight, or until cool.
  • When ready to serve, check the seasoning again and sprinkle with chives.
Recipe from: Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook

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